Seoul Fashion Week – 18 Oct 11

2012 S/S Seoul Fashion Week Heralds New S/S Season with Novel Prints and Various Interpretations of Sportism

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An Yoon Jung / AN YOON JUNG ANSUnder the theme, ‘Re: Value,’ designer An featured her collection of ever-changing, dynamic texture evoking the surfaces of minerals or the movements of light and water. The collection began with a black slinky mini-dress and a cape-like billowy bolero. The designer, who wanted to express airy lightness and brightly flowing light and water, used chiffon and organza in sky blue and cream to create the lightened, lively silhouette. Toward the end of the show, materials and print patterns varied greatly. Clothes densely adorned with elegant beads and unique mineral prints added fun, while the dresses with distinctive adjustment, seemingly inspired by hanbok(Korean traditional clothing) in style, were highly praised as a modern and uniquely Korean look.
Kang Ki Ok / KIOKThe impressive opening footage, which depicted a grief-stricken girl in Manhattan, New York, smoothly led to a metro-glam fashion show in Seoul with the appearance of Jonte in a purple pleats suit. After this mind-blowing opening, which came from the collaboration with creative directors and video artists from New York, Gang Seung-hyun, a New York-based top model, appeared on the runway. Kang’s collection borrowed many of its themes from the 60’s. The designer herself, in fact, once said that she gets much inspiration from many films, photos and fashion items made in the 60’s. The overall silhouette was based on modern, classic Tomboy look accented by interesting stripes and optical prints, creating an unbalanced charm when matched with such feminine materials as silk and chiffon.
UNITED BAMBOOWant a true New Yorker office look? United Bamboo, a leading duo of contempo New York style, showcased an impressive office look. They, especially, focused on the manish women’s wear inspired by the 80’s Japanese fashion trend – collarless jackets and well-cut tuxedo jackets. The color scheme of ivory, sand, beige, white and black was definitely New York-esque, making their office look of one-piece dresses and wide pants matched with snazzy jackets appealingly novel. The thinly-processed summer leather was also eye-catching, if the collection was for the S/S season. Light linen and silk were a refreshing plus to the summer leather of shorts, jackets and body-conscious skirts. The latter part of the show was characterized by summer dresses with abstract printings, which evoked the paintings of Jackson Pollock. They seemed perfect for New Yorkers strolling through the downtown of Manhattan. The white cotton dress matched with a tuxedo jacket, which graced the finale, looked ideal for both office and special dinner.
Hong Eun Ju / ENZUVANHong Eun Ju of ENZUVAN has pursued a refreshingly ‘easy look’ for the past few seasons. This season was no exception. Her collection was a feast of comfortable casual clothes including hoody jumpers, leggings, loose-fit T-shirts. The materials and details, however, made subtle differences. Undulating cotton, cotton-jersey, and soft chiffon were matched in the outers, while naturally creased cotton made the clothes more billowy. Meanwhile, the shoe lines laid out a stark contrast with the clothes in laid-back style, bringing up the image of warriors. The collection mainly featured earth tones like khaki and brown with occasional matches of black and white. The outers spanned from anorak jumpers to long, loose-fit knit wear and to trench coats with creative variations. Hong used vivid purple in the latter part of the show to give some refreshing changes to the color palette. The finale was graced by white dresses, which made the audience feel like walking the beach under the warm sun.
EUDON CHOIUnder the theme, ‘NEUTOPIA,’ Eudon Choi showcased his collection of modern sports wear with a creative color scheme. Inspired by the sports wear of the 60’s and 70’s, he presented open-sided H-line one-piece dresses, simple skirts, midi-length shorts like those of boxers and extra-wide pants. The baseball jumpers, a main outer item, were punctuated by simple, collarless jackets, while the Nappa-leather jackets balanced the collection look not to become too much casual. The shoulder bags with straps, which looked like climbers’ loop lines, and funky sunglasses with distinct Londoner sensibility wonderfully added to the sporty aspects of the collection. The extra-wide pants, which appeared in a row at the end of the show, were splendid enough just like full-flowing maxi-skirts and seemed ideal for evening wear.
Kwak Hyun Joo / KWAK HYUN JOO COLLECTIONDesigner Kwak Hyun Joo, gaining much attention with her bold and fabulous collections, featured her powerful 70s-style retro-glam look for this season. A tribute to Nadia, her cute cat living with her for almost ten years, this show started with a cat’s mew. Soft, pastel tones and even an odd Lolita vibe dominated the earlier half, while the rest was characterized by strong colors like deep purple and green. The glamour of flower prints was maximized by the bead adornments and dresses with impressive waist lines received acclamations from the audience including international buyers.
RAD BY RAD HOURANIRad Hourani, who has conducted in-depth studies of blue color, chose the kaleidoscopic variations of blue from day to night as the main theme of the collection, which means the color scheme was very limited. The main colors were dark blue and black in tone-on-tone match, occasionally punctuated by white. True to his unisex design, he clung to a cohesive silhouette throughout the collection. He seemed having spent much time and effort over the classic tuxedo jackets, and the result was the bold linear silhouette of his clothes. Sometimes, jackets were worn just like halter neck tops with occasional variations in hemlines. What’s interesting was that most of his clothes could be converted into another form in at least one way. The show was finished with swarms of models, whose dark-force clothing helped emphasize his design concept.
Im Seon Oc / IMSEONOCThe most impressive thing about Im Seon Oc’s collection was the gorgeous prints which looked like a cross-section of an immense spiral galaxy in the universe. Based upon these prints, her show mainly introduced pleasantly simple silhouette. Sporty aspects and functional comforts stood out through the collection. If the vivid prints dominated in the later half, the show was, as a whole, so relaxing and natural. Impressive accessories like the transparent necklace with a watch printed on it instilled a new futuristic feel into the collection, while the high-heeled shoes converted from walkers were an ideal item for completing the theme.