Seoul Fashion Week – 19 Oct 11

Seoul Fashion Week Features Top Drawer Clothing

with Mystic Off-white Color Palette and Vivid Prints

Back to SFW’s table

Choi, Bo Ko / CHOIBOKOChoi, Bo Ko’s collection opened with vivid colors and an irregular arrangement of human-eye motifs, evoking the works of Joan Miró, an Impressionist painter. The primary-color prints were matched with shirt-type one-piece dresses and leggings accented by the occasional uses of sequin. The strong primary colors gradually gave way to the pastel-toned flower prints, creating a romantic vibe. Nude, beige, pink and emerald colors and the floral print patterns, overlapped with black, exuded a romantic, urban-chic atmosphere. Towards the end, the color contrast stood out, completing the show with intense yet chilled-out clothes.
LE-QUEEN COUTURELe-Queen Couture was characterized by medieval clothing. Opulent dresses with unsurpassed detailing were the main draw cards of this self-proclaimed ‘couture’ brand. The laces and the see-through texture were mostly adorned with spangly beads making the clothes more wearable and stylish. The highlight here was the impressive match of cape and black chiffon dress with a dense adornment of beads.
Lee, Doii / DOII PARISLee, Doii, the maximalist of Seoul Fashion Week, famous for her convivially novel prints and silhouette, presented her Indian dancer-inspired collection for this season. The models on the catwalk showed off gorgeous head-dresses and accessories, bringing up the image of legendary double-agent Mata Hari. Such ‘Indian’ colors as deep Turquoise blue and red orange, and the draping borrowed from traditional India costumes dominated the later half of the collection, which had begun with chiffon dresses with white laces and peach tone.
Park, Seung Gun / PUSH BUTTON
“SUCCESS OR LOVE, LOVE OR SUCCESS” Park, Seung Gun of PUSH BUTTON featured his witty and creative collection, under the theme of success and love in style. The main focus here was to present a variety of must-have fashion items for ‘themselves’. Opened up with chiffon dress matched with bustier top, the show consecutively introduced high-waist pants, stripe T-shirts and boxy, yet dressy, maxi-skirts. Six pieces of men’s wear were occasionally presented, too, which the designer himself called a ‘girl friend fit,’ an interesting twist of the ‘boy friend fit’ enjoyed by some women. The neutral colors at the beginning gradually turned into dazzling fluorescent tones. The inflated hairdos and exaggerated makeup evoked the photo images by Guy Bourdin and the 80’s feminists.
Kim Soo Jin / SOULPOT STUDIOPresented at the showroom was an idyllic-mood collection, where the fragrance of Demeter filled the air. The most outstanding was her use of materials. The crisp cloth, a fine mix of linen and cotton, made the seemingly plain silhouette less boring, while the print-patterned satin completed the dress more interestingly. If there’s no hint of naturalism, other than the spreading scent, the collection was so refreshing and even ‘healthy’, as if we’ve just took a bite of organic vegetables. We had here definitely an up-and-coming designer.
Lee, Suk Tae / KAAL. E. SUKTAELee, Suk Tae, inspired by a phrase in Genesis, which depicted the new space emerging form the splitting water, presented a lot of printed items bringing up the image of water, sky and stones. His collection began with manish pants and suits. Though he chose the manly silhouette, he offered sexy, feminine suits mixed with lace and chiffon and gorgeous print-patterns. The water-drop prints close to the real thing and wood-grain-, or stone-surface-like prints created a perfect harmony with sophisticated detailing.
Hong, Hye Jin / STUDIO KHong, Hye Jin, a former Generation Next designer, has established herself as Korea’s most representative minimalist designer. This season, Hong, newly raised to the Fashion Take-off, gained rave reviews from members of the media and buyers with her fascinatingly stable collection. Especially, her trademark detailing in a perfect match with the minimal clothes graciously increased the quality of the collection. Hong, Hye Jin, who had also launched a custom-made men’s suit line last year, was passionate enough to introduce both men’s wear and women’s wear in this collection. Main colors, mostly calming, included light grey, white, black and beige, while the overall silhouette was not so much slinky as loose-flowing. The exquisite details, including the skirt pleats on the side and linear jackets matched with fluid wide pants, were also eye-catching.
ANDY & DEBB+ ANBY & DEBB COURAGEAndy & Debb, a well-known and much anticipated design duo for their snazzy, well-organized collections, brought the guests to sunset-washed St Tropez. The retro cream-tone dress and jacket with wing collars were followed by wide pants and deep-blue satin dress, evoking the St Tropez beach. In contrast to their women’s clothes with long-and-lean silhouette, ANBY & DEBB COURAGE depicted an active young man enjoying surfing and the sun. Most men’s clothes were presented in mix-and-match suit style, suggesting a new styling trend, while the knee-length pants were completed with various materials including cotton, knit and satin. Later in the collection, sunset print suits dominated the orange-washed runway, blessing the audience with a 15-minute-long holiday extravagance.
Steve J & Yoni P / STEVE J & YONI PWhen is it that this design duo’s imagination comes to an end? Steve J & Yoni P, always adrenalizing the Seoul Fashion Week events with their witty, eclectic collections, presented this season functional yet beautiful clothing for jetsetters under the theme, ‘Fly Me Away,’ instead of their usual urban-cool city look. ‘Sportism’ is the keyword for describing their collections, which span from intense but lovely flower print-clad mini-skirts and boxy over-sized jackets to elegant full skirts and maxi-dresses. The aesthetically-superb sun caps, rain coats and anorak jumpers were well-worth being called a ‘luxe sporty look’. Travel bags, made in collaboration with J. Estina, were well-suited for the theme of the collection: ‘travel’, while the platform sandals by designer shoe brand Reike Nen were perfect for those admiring <Thelma & Louise>. The prints with sophisticated detailing also caught the audience’s eye. A fan of Steve J & Yoni P should not miss the flower prints gracing both the opening and the ending of the show, and undulating blue prints.
Han Song (TROA)Designer Han Song, who seems like a minstrel in the fashion industry, has boundlessly studied of Korean aesthetics for the past few seasons. His concept of this season is ‘ragman’. He made a seemingly scruffy color scheme by a natural-dyeing method and completed his collection theme through keen layering. From the skirts borrowed from hanbok skirts, to the short cape, a pleasant variation of traditional long hood worn by Korean women, and to the pants inspired by the farmhands’ bagged trousers, his collection brilliantly reinterpreted uniquely Korean fashion items.
Lee, Jae Hwan / JAE HWAN*LEE PARISLee, Jae Hwan’s career outdoes other young emerging designers. He received the Grand Prix at the 2007 Festival International des jeunes créateurs de mode de Dinard and, a couple of month ago, was selected as one of the ten ‘Seoul’s 10 Soul’ designers for the Paris Fashion Week. Lee presented his impressive collection under the theme, ‘FLYING LESSON 66,’ which explored the women’s desire to fly. He used various materials ranging from organza to tweed to express women’s body more sensuously.
Lee, Young Li / LILEELee, Young Li, who had participated in the London Collection last year, brilliantly recreated an amusement park in the 60s to express the 60s’ style in metaphorical ways. Toned-down green, khaki and beige were used to present various jackets, skirts and dresses. Highlights included asymmetric dresses exposing one shoulder, micro-mini skirts of linen and bulky jackets. Besides, the vivid color shoes brought up the image of bouncy girls enjoying themselves at an amusement park.
Jung, Mi Sun / NOKHEJ Jung, Mi Sun, now in her second season as a Generation Next designer, completed her collection with the theme of ‘Sun Shower’. Through the roll of thunder and the splattering sound of rain, white tops and black organza-draped look appeared on the catwalk. The main draw card of her collection was the stark contrast between strong and weak or tough and soft. Especially, her expertise in dealing with such heavy materials as leather and suede was incomparably superb.

Pros