Seoul Fashion Week – 20 Oct 11

2012 S/S Seoul Fashion Week Now Reaches Midway through Putting Expertise and Experiment together!

Back to SFW’s table

2012 S/S Seoul Fashion Week, now reaching midway through, is getting more exciting. Lie, Sang Bong(LIE SANG BONG), Park, Choon Moo(PARK CHOON MOO), and Choi, Ji Hyung(JI CHOI) presented their upgraded versions of collections, which had also been introduced in New York and Paris, while Kim Jae Hyun(JADIN DE CHOUETTE) wowed the audience with her wearable women’s dresses and pant suits. The Generation Next event held at D’light was overflowing with dynamic experiments quite differentiated from other established designers. The PT room at SETEC Hall 3 held the collections of Yun Hee Sun(RIETTA), Deresa Choi(SONO DRS) and Park Jey/park jiha(TACHE), all of which drew huge attention with their adventurous design and top-quality style.

Meanwhile, a Galaxy Tab experience bus was displayed in front of the entrance to the SETEC, the main venue of Seoul Fashion Week, offering visitors a chance to experience the cutting-edge product. The bus is expected to be open until October 22, the closing day of Seoul Fashion Week.

The fifth day of Seoul Fashion Week (Oct. 21) is packed with even more colorful events. Between 4:00 pm and 8:30 pm, a charity bazaar and an auction show with donations from SFW designers are held at SETEC Hall 2. In addition, the auction of fashion Awoo Dolls, directly made by SFW designers and famous celebrities, will take place, appealing much to the visitors.

Yun Hee Sun / RIETTAThe collection of Yun Hee Sun, who confessed she was much influenced by her mother, a creative sculptor, presented her philosophically inspirational clothes. Such modern colors as black-and-white, light brown and toned-down Turquoise blue graced her classic, yet modern, style look, which was completed through an elegant mix-match of stiff cotton, denim, leather, chiffon and organza. The main draw cards of her collection included diverse materials, irregular silhouette and wearable clothes.
Yang, Sung Sook / Y&M YANG SUNG SOOKDesigner Yang, Sung Sook, having presented her gracious, classic women’s look each season, said that the collection for this season was inspired by Lyonel Feininger, a leading expressionist famous for his ‘Forme de Lumiere’. The opening was graced by a series of impressive dresses with outstanding, lively color gradations and side divisions. The matched materials were also worth checking out. For the upcoming S/S 12 season, she created smooth, yet edgy, silhouette by mixing chiffon with al bit thick taffeta. The overall neutral tones of white and beige were punctuated by red, blue and yellow, adding up to a bright mood.
Deresa Choi / SONO DRSChoi’s collection began with a swarm of androgynous models with mustaches and neatly parted hair sitting in the front row. Mono-tone jersey – black, grey and white – dominated throughout the show. If often interspersed with fringe and cutting, the collection was fascinatingly understated and wearable.
Park Choon Moo / PARK CHOON MOOPark’s collection began with a sangmo-twirling performance by Ahn Jung Beom, a master of namsadangnori(traditional Korean entertainment designated as the #3 Seoul’s Important Intangible Cultural Properties), with the runway overflowing with fog. The mysterious circle created by the 1.8-meter-long sangmo ribbon was actually the key motif to this collection. By the time the fog disappeared, models in impressively linear black-and-white suits started to appear on the catwalk. The shoulder pads looked so robust and the buckles for bustier were used as linking rings for pants and jackets, adding to the powerful effects. Almost all the items included some types of unbalanced aspects – one-shoulder tops and different-length pants, for instance. Towards the end of the collection, the black and white tones were interspersed with bright red and blue. The bandaged bustier made a stark contrast with the undulating lines of the clothes as the models walked the runway. The bandage details were also used for shoes creating a feeling of unity. The pictorial representation of the uniquely Korean aesthetic sensibilities was successful completed.
Lee Seung Hee / LEYIIUnder the theme, ‘Breathing Shades,’ steadily growing designer Lee Seung Hee used patchwork, drape and color contrast to express the natural-looking shades of human body. She metaphorically depicted the theme of the collection by the colors as lively and stereoscopic as the shades of body movements. The obliquely-cut skirt lines were sexily jiggling around the legs as the models walked on the runway, while the slinky dresses of thin jersey revealed the designer’s expertise in handling delicate materials.
Park Jey/park jiha / TACHEThe TACHE Collection, aiming for ‘new classism,’ featured such classic items as trench coats, mini-dresses and basic suits with modern twist. In the collection, this design duo tried to emphasize ‘elegance’, often neglected by the women in the modern society. More importantly, what they chose for expressing their theme was a reinterpretation of familiar, not strange, items. The collection was dominated by black, the epitome of classism. Draping, dismantling, combining and impressive tailoring all contributed to create functional, yet creative, clothes. Especially, the trench coats and chic jump suits with various details were attractive enough to instantly arouse purchasing needs.
Kim Jae Hyun / JARDIN DE CHOUETTEAn understated atmosphere dominates the garden of owls this season, instead of fabulous flower blossoms. Designer Kim Jae Hyun, who had said she uses subtraction and covering, not addition, to create more form-and-structure-oriented garments, presented this season elegantly understated suits with no details like collar and button. The one-piece dresses and bustier tops showed off the gracious curves of women’s body. JARDIN DE CHOUETTE did not forget its favorite color palette including off-white, black, dark blue, hot orange and hot pink. The ever-evolving owl prints, used for jackets, one-piece dresses and pants, were transformed into more graphically effective types. Besides, the accordion pleats on the jackets’ shoulder lines instilled a lively vibe into her minimal look along with the pocket details, which seemed like a huge flower or a ribbon.
Choi, Ji Hyung / JI CHOIChoi, Ji Hyung, who had been selected for the ‘SEOUL’S 10 SOUL’ fashion event and made her successful debut in Pairs Fashion Week, showcased this season her fabulous collection, which was renamed from JOHNNY HATES JAZZ to current ‘JI CHOI’. The works of Henry Matisse, one of the most famous architects and painters in the 20s, gave some significant inspirations to her collection. Her favorite graphic prints became much bolder and more colorful. The color palettes in the paintings of Matisse were recreated in her collection even more fabulously. Her show featuring contemporary style sensibility accented by pictorial elements ran the whole gamut from daywear to nightwear, or from urban look to holiday style. Various materials including punching leather, sequin, crepe, wool and silk also deserved attention.
Lie Sang Bong / LIE SANG BONGThe main theme, ‘Over the Rainbow,’ of Lie sang Bong’s collection was borrowed from dancheng(multi-color paintwork on traditional Korean buildings), Korea’s most representative print type. With impressive cubes, that depicted dancheong, installed in front of the runway, Lie’s collection began with a spectacular B-boy performance. The suits, adorned with eye-catching three-dimensional dancheong on the chest and the sleeves, were followed by a chain of elegant dancheong prints. The drop-dead gorgeous colors met glowing sequins and the multi-layered prints created quite a different mood. While his previous collections could be defined ‘mature’, this time he featured a bit girlish collection of color socks and sandals matched with plastic sunglasses. The transparent facial masks and the dresses with vinyl or metallic materials were in perfect match with his trademark edgy cutting, delivering a futuristic atmosphere. Lie’s endeavor to pursue uniquely Korean motifs is still under way.
Yoon, Se Na / SOFTCORE BY SENA YOONUp-and-coming Yoon, Se Na, loved by young fashion buffs with her characteristically adventurous design, featured her collection under the theme, ‘Flowers in Full Glory’. The collection focused on early spring immediately after the winter, when flowers begin to bloom and the sunlight is getting warmer, yet there’s cold snaps sticking around. She made her look by visualizing boys and girls who enjoy their flower-viewing. With a piece of traditional African percussion music played live by yimoha band, the laced one-piece dresses were graciously matched by the jackets with seemingly-winter-worn flower prints and checkered patterns.
Lee, Gee Eun / GRANGE YARDThe GRANGE YARD Collection, under the theme, ‘Imaginary mix of British and Korean women who lived in the 1910s,’ were celebrated with a profusion of aptly selected knitwear. As if defying the stereotype that knitwear is for autumn and winter, she presented loosely-woven knit dresses and creative knit tops sexily mixed with chiffon, eliciting audience exclamations. The heels evoking the image of straw shoes and the beoseons (traditional Korean socks) were the key to dating back to the 1910s.
Song, Yu Jin / S=YZDesigner Song Yu Jin, well-known for her distinctive collections under a bit abstract theme, ‘Changes in Women’s Mind.’ This season, the ‘S=yz’ designer showcased a collection with the title of ‘Mermaid escaping from the sea.’ Song effectively created a mermaid fantasy, who endlessly undergoes changes of mind until she escapes from the sea, with mermaid-detailed prints punctuated by the 30s style. The color palette, which began with white and gradually turned into multi-color prints, was equally worth seeing.
Kim, Hong Bum / CRES. E DIM.Kim, Hong Bum’s collection could be depicted as showing ‘aesthetic moderation.’ Under the title, ‘Gentle Waves,’ this promisingly talented designer presented a sophisticated combination of mono-tones and impressive detailing based on the understanding of human body. Most of his clothes came in colorful variations while maintaining their original forms. One such example was the simple, yet extraordinary, vest with irregular cuttings on the shoulder and collar.

Pros