Seoul Fashion Week – 22 Oct 11

2012 S/S Men’s Wear Collection

Provokes Nostalgia with Pliable Silhouette

Back to SFW’s table

Seo, Eun Gil / G.I.L HOMMEUnder the theme, ‘Tribute to My Father,’ Seo, Eun Gil’s collection began with a short film, which showed a series of black-and-white photos of Korea’s modern history, and ‘Camellia Blossom Girl’, a famous Korean song by Lee M-ja. The pictorial monochrome silk suits were matched with round silver glasses, evoking the image of time-worn black-and-white photographs. Soon, the blur array of grey color ended and a technicolor film changed the mood of the show, presenting the current image of Korea. The achromatic clothes earlier in the show gradually turned into those with such idyllic tones as yellow, mint and lavender. As befits the collection theme, the illustrated black-and-white image of his father graced the finale of the show.
Kim, Jae Hwan / ALANIKim, Jae Hwan, having presented classic and contemporary men’s wear under the theme, ‘Less is More,’ showcased this season his linear-silhouette styles inspired by Zig Zag Chair of Gerrit Thomas Rietveld, a Danish architect and furniture designer. The trench coats and half coats finished with white, black and deep blue denims were accented by black ribbon tapes. The straight and diagonal lines were in various use throughout the collection, which delivered, as a whole, both femininity and masculinity.
Kiel Hayley / HAYLEY KIELKiel Hayley got her collection theme from actress Maggie Cheung staring in the film, <In the Mood for Love>. Above all, the splendid colors caught the audience’s eye. Vivid colors like hot pink, orange, blue and violet met eelskin leather. In contrast, the design was finished with simplistic, modern square shapes. The square-shaped shoulder bags at the opening and weaving-detailed clutches were two most impressive items of the show.
Kang, Dong Jun / D.GNAK BY KANG.DKang, Dong Jun’s collection, held under the theme of ‘Normad’, opened with a naturally crumpled trench coat, which was followed by a chic combination of jackets and pants, knit or cotton T-shirts, training wear and shorts, most of which looked a bit shabby and time-worn. The impressive detailing in patchwork and low cut with uncompleted margin to seam and the seemingly unbalanced colors maximized the old-fashioned effect. The color palette was also composed of such muted tones as navy, beige, khaki and grey. The most impressive was its finale scene. While the models in black suits walked the catwalk by turns, the last model gave a beautiful flower to a woman in the front row, and soon the designer himself kneeled down to propose to her, actually his girlfriend.
Hee Min Yang / VANDALIST BY VANDALThis season, Yang Hee Min got his inspiration from <A Hunger Artist>, a Frantz Kafka’s short story, and the music of indi-band Mot. The collection created a ‘bog-walking’ mood, with the music of Mot filling the air. The color palette consisting of just black and white looked gorgeous under the pin lightings. Yang expressed seemingly strong, yet feeble, images in his clothing, with the details like draping, pleats and flairs adding to the feminine mood. The most impressive were the trench coats which graced the end of the collection. Some were short-sleeved, while others were matched with capes or had fascinating pleats. All were different in shape, but gave a feeling of unity.
Hong, Sung Wan / ROLIATDividing the stage into two and installing a huge backdrop on the one side, Hong, Sung Wan’s ROLIAT collection featured this season powerful and, at the same time, lyrical styles, inspired by Jack Beresford, a legendary rowing champion. It’s a suburban lakeside of England. Models in Canotier hats, time-worn stripe suits and blue suits, symbolizing the boat race, began walking the runway. The clothes based on classic suits looked warm thanks to the color variations. The women’s wear looking like men’s were also attractive enough. The linen jackets and long knits seemed so wearable regardless of gender. The bags made of canvas and leather completed the atmospheric collection.
Lee, Hyun Chan / CHAN+GE BY LEE HYUN CHANLee, Hyun Chan, especially for his tailored suits, featured his witty collection this season with the concept of ‘Chef’. Inspired by the smile and dishes of his favorite chef, he brilliantly layered aprons and scarves over his trademark tailored jackets and pants. The collection studded with linen and cotton looked ideally seasonal, light-hearted and lively. The double-buttoned shirts, motifed by the chef’s gown, were perfect for energetic men as well as chefs with active movements.
Park Mi Sun / GEAR3 BY SAENPark Mi Sun’s collection was split into three categories – formal, casual and resort, with modern and experimental designs. There were many witty and functionally effective design items including the square-box-shaped backpacks and hooded backpacks. The mesh bags designed by artist Baek Du-ri, a friend of the Park, were also refreshingly novel.
Chang, Kwang Hyo / CARUSOChang, Kwang Hyo’s collection began with a short footage which showed the photos of his first Paris collection in 1994, shot by photographer Kwon Young-ho. It was because the designer wanted to instill the energy and attitude he had had at that time into the collection. The tailored suits cut with pinpoint accuracy opened the collection, followed by tops with sailor-suit color details, slim-fit pants matched with leopard-print tops and a varied combination of tuxedo jackets and trench coats. Splendid prints and minimal long dresses whose silhouette brought up the image of qípáo, a Chinese dress, also graced the stage. Chang said before the collection, ‘I want to make heart-fluttering clothes ideal for your closet,’ and his wishes just came true through the fascinating collection.

Pros